PORTLAND, Ore. (KOIN) — Over the past decade or so, the Olympics have tried to add more sports that are relevant to modern culture, and rock climbing, which debuted in Tokyo, is back for a second time.
Over the past few days, several U.S. Olympians competing in the sport Portland Rock Gym This will be their final training camp before reuniting in Paris.
“The head coach of the U.S. team reached out to us and asked if they'd like to do a training camp on our wall. The Titan Wall is the same wall that will be used at the Olympics in Paris in about a month,” said Nick Gagliardi, head route setter for Titan Wall. Portland Rock Gym. “He wanted the opportunity to bring his guys here and let them play on the walls, play on the holds they might see at the Olympics, play in Portland. Let them have fun with each other and just play and build their confidence.”
The confidence part is key, because even taking one look at someone climbing makes it clear that strength is only part of the equation for success in the sport.
“Climbing, especially competitive climbing, is as much physical as mental. I focus a lot on mental training, which has changed the way I look at climbing. Before it was all about mental training, but now it's more about health and mental wellbeing,” said rock climber Brooke Rabatou.
There are many misconceptions about this sport, for example some people ask if climbers can reach the summit of Everest or if they can do it free solo like in the famous movie of the same name starring Alex Honnold, but there is something about this sport that you would never expect.
“A lot of people think we've practiced bouldering, but we've never actually seen it,” Rabatou said. “If it's the final round, we'll have a two-minute preview of the bouldering, and then we'll go out and actually do it for a four- or five-minute round. We don't even get to try it out beforehand or watch it with our coach.”
The sport is only growing in popularity, and a return to Olympic prominence will undoubtedly help it become more popular again.
Veteran Colin Duffy, competing in his second consecutive Olympic Games, gave a farewell speech to the younger climbers.
“I think the focus should be on making climbing a lifelong sport for kids, making it something they really enjoy, and not overtraining them so they hate it. Don't pressure them at an early age, just try the moves and enjoy it being a part of their childhood,” Duffy said.
